Take a hike on the Hogside

I was invited to go for a hike along the famous Amatohla trails that surround Hogsback on what used to be called Boxing Day by new camping friends Mike and Judy from Cape Town. After helping with chores around the campsite, I pulled on my boots, one thing I did remember to pack and prepared a simple day pack with windbreaker and water. There had been much talk of security on the trail and also the risk of leaving vehicles at any of the parking spots, so we decided hoof it from camp and to take Quince along as backup. Even if he was a bit of a woes, at least he looked the business.

Only thing was, I had no idea how fit he was as we never do any strenuous walks in Cape Town, not to mention any technical stuff. So, with quince and Particia, the camsite mutt in tow, we set off along the tree-lined avenue. We passed the Hogsback Inn along the way, a quaint English country hotel style establishment with it’s cut stone façade, high pitched roof, dormer windows and park-like grounds bisected by a tumbling stream. No sooner than we were around the first few corners, I decided to let Quince off the lead. He took a tentative first few steps next to me, seemed to find his mojo and bounded down the road like a puppy, followed by Patricia. My heart sang to see him free and full of energy.

With the constant “piet my vrou” call of the Red Chested Cuckoo’s ringing out all round us, we left the road and made our way along the damp pathway towards the Swallowtail falls. The entrance was not well marked and you may easily miss this if you are travelling y car. Although the setting was magical and well forested, the falls themselves were not much more that a jumble of rocks in the river course, causing the water to divert and cascade over them. There were several well-placed benches that provided a peaceful perch for those folks needing some peaceful respite. Although the forest trail led from the Swallowtail falls directly to our next leg, the Madonna and Child falls, we decided to head back to the road and make our way to the head of the trail that way. As I rounded a corner, I heads a splash and arrived at the small wooden bridge to see Quince’s wet and bedraggled face as he pulled himself out of the water. With all the rain, the bridge was as slippery as an ice rink. For a dog that was so scared of water that he runs away from the waves on the beach, it was the funniest sight to behold. He had finally been baptized on the Hog. Wet dog smell permeated the forest.

The entrance to the Tyume Indigenous Forrest is well signposted and offers the hiker a splendid vista of magnificent wooded valley buttressed on the South side by imposing granite cliffs. Descending to Madonna and Child falls was a treacherous affair. The logs used to create the steps for the decent into the lush valley were slick and inviting a twisted ankle at least. The boardwalks that followed were even worse, slowing our pace to a step-by-step, hand-over-hand slither. With the great advantage of youth and four feet on the ground, Quince and Patricia made light work of the conditions, charging ahead, stopping, turning around and returning to the struggling hikers to lend some encouragement. I was amazed at how quickly Quince had found his trail legs.

He looked all confidence. That was until we reached the spray splashed rocks overlooked by the Lady herself. Beneath the gaze of the Madonna, Quince went slipping from one rock to the next while Patricia was all poise, easily hopping from one boulder to the next. What a lady. What a drowned rat of a tramp. The Madonna and Child waterfall is one of the most remarkable natural wonders that I have seen. The river powered by the recent rains created a veil noble veil around her head while her child perched serenely on her shoulder, really worth the walk. We were drenched after no time and, looking a bit like soggy. I constantly had to wipe the lens of my camera as I snapped away at this marvel.

After taking loads of photos, we backtracked to the trail junction and headed off in the direction of the Bridal Veil falls and the Big Tree. The indigenous Tyume Afromontane forest of the Amathola was as pristine as any forest I have had the pleasure of hiking through. Fortunately it was a cool and overcast day and the humidity levels were not too high. Rotting and decomposing vegetation carpeted the forest floor surrounding me with a rich dank perfume a constant reminder of the circle of life. Even once mighty trees eventually succumb to the laws of nature and return to feed the roots of their offspring.

The Bridal Vail falls were situated a short walk off the main trail. Quince got within earshot of the sound of the water crashing onto the rocks when the trail was so blocked by logs and precarious rocks that just sat down and would go further. I sent Mike and Judy off to see the falls and decided to wait with Quince as I didn’t want to push him too hard. Mike returned to take over, giving me a chance to take a gander at the falls. I must admit that I was either looking at he wrong waterfall or someone had pulled the veil over my head. Either which way, I wasn’t very impressed after the Madonna and Child experience. Quince and Patricia looked like they needed a pee break and I knew just the spot. The Big Tree.

The only thing standing between us and that tree was… a river. We came across a river crossing with swiftly running waters and well placed boulders. I crossing first taking the easy stepping rocks in my stride. Patricia followed elegantly picking her way across the boulders in the fast running stream. Mike and Judy easily made it across but Quince wasn’t having any of it. Water crossing? You must be joking. After several failed attempts to get him to cross, including getting Patricia to show him the way, we decided to walk out of site around the corner and see if he would take the plunge. Not a chance. Maybe it was the earlier dip in the river or his innate dislike of getting wet. He wasn’t budging. I tried enticing him with food. The poor chap must have been starving having had no breakfast and after hiking for the better part of three hours. Nothing was getting Quince near that water. I finally gave up the treat reward scenario and man handled the 65KG hound across the stream. He was still resisting when we reached the other side. Nutter?

The Big Tree is an eight hundred year old indigenous Yellowwood monster that has a girth that would take several long armed oaks struggling to get their arms around it. Although it is fenced off, you can still get close enough to appreciate the texture of the bark. After clicking a few pics, we headed to the end of the trail. The going got really slippery with sloshes of mud underfoot. Judy had a few close encounters with mother earth on the slippery inclines and Quince, ever the gentleman, parked himself firmly at her side and offered something for her to hang onto. The end our hike was on the R345 just 500m from Swallowtail Country Estate where we started. All I can say is, if you’re ever in Hogsback, hiking the many trails through the Afromontane forests is an absolute must. Permits and maps can be obtained from the information office in the main street and a cost of R10. Be sure to take a waterproof jacket for he spray around the falls and for the sudden changes in the weather.